U.S.A. CLIMBING
Comp Climbing
I first got into climbing in 2015 when I was just 10 years old. Before that, I bounced around sport to sport, trying to find something that really clicked. Nothing really stuck, until I found climbing, and from the moment I stepped into the gym, I felt an instant connection. There was something about the movement, the challenge, and the problem-solving aspect that made me feel like I had finally found my thing.
I decided to go for Team Mesa Rim, and the tryout was held at their training academy, a separate facility from the main gym, and it was packed with over a hundred other kids eager to see which level they’d place in their different teams. The coaches were scattered throughout the building, watching us climb and taking notes. It was nerve-wracking, but also exhilarating. By the weekend, they announced the individual placements, and to my complete shock, I was placed on the Summit team—the highest level of climbers who would compete for U.S.A. Climbing.
Everything started moving so quickly. That following Monday, I was registered as a U.S.A. Climbing athlete, and my training kicked off. We had practice three times a week, super fun, but they were not easy. We did a mix of strength training, weightlifting, finger-strength exercises using hang boards, and of course, tons of climbing. Starting as a 10 year old kid, this definitely taught me determination and what having a focused goal oriented mind felt like. Each session was designed to make us stronger, more technical, and better prepared for the competition seasons.
Being on the team also came with some pretty amazing opportunities. We had training workshops with professional climbers like Alex Puccio, Sean Bailey, and Gabriele Moroni. They gave us insights into movement, mental preparation, and what it’s like to compete at the highest level. On top of that, we had sponsorships from major brands like Black Diamond, Patagonia, Adidas, and E9 Clothing, which felt surreal. One of the most unique experiences was getting to be part of an Olympic study, where a team of analysts ran a bunch of tests on us to gather data before climbing was added to the 2020 Olympic Games. It was crazy to think that we were helping shape the future of the sport at such a young age.
Competitions were next level. The climbing season was split into two main categories: bouldering and ropes (which included top rope, lead, and speed climbing). I’ve always been drawn to bouldering, and to this day, it’s my favorite style of climbing. With ropes climbing, you need endurance and flow since the walls are much taller. But with bouldering, the walls are shorter, so the routes can be extra creative and intense. You can get these big, dynamic moves or super technical sequences that test your precision and strength. There’s no rope to catch you, just a thick pad beneath you, so every attempt carries this rush of adrenaline.
Competitions were also split into two formats: redpoint and on-sight. In redpoint competitions, we got to preview/choose the routes ahead of time, practice them, and figure out the best beta (sequence of moves) before attempting . On-sight comps, however, were a whole different challenge. In these, we were placed in isolation, kept away from the competition area so we couldn’t see the climbs or watch anyone else go. When it was finally our turn, we were given just a few minutes to look at the route before stepping onto the wall, having to figure it all out on the fly. Every climb had a designated start zone where you had to establish control before beginning, and the finish hold had to be held in a controlled manner too to count as a successful attempt. There was also a zone at the midway point of each route you were assigned too, and if you got there you would gain some points. (see video below) On-sight comps were my favorite because they tested mental toughness, decision-making, and the ability to stay calm under pressure with judges, a massive crowed , and a literal spotlight watching you.
One of the craziest comps I ever did involved being in isolation for two hours before I was finally walked out to my climbs. The anticipation alone was nerve-wracking., but at the same time there was an overall psyche that outweighed it all. At the end of each season, team championships were awarded: U.S.A. Climbing would average out every gym's average based on their competitors placements, compare them regionally, and determine the top team overall. And I guess our hard work paid off because Mesa Rim crushed it year after year!
Example of a comp climb
When the pandemic hit, I decided to conclude my time in the competition scene. Instead of competing, I started working at climbing gyms, and narrowed by focus on coaching youth teams developing new programs for young climbers. It felt like a full-circle moment getting to give back to the sport that had given me so much. Climbing has shaped me in more ways than I ever could have imagined, and even though my days of competition are behind me, my passion for climbing is stronger than ever. The sport continues to evolve, and so does my passion for it!
